Working in the Round
Everything you've learned so far has been worked in flat rows — you go to the end, turn, and come back. But some of the most iconic crochet projects (hats, amigurumi, granny squares, coasters) are worked in rounds, building outward or upward in a tube or circle. This is a completely different movement that unlocks an entire new world of projects.
What we cover: Starting a round with a magic ring or chain ring, the difference between the spiral method and joined rounds, and which technique to use for different projects.
Rows vs Rounds — What Changes
When working flat rows, you turn your work at the end of each row and crochet back the other way. This means the right side and wrong side alternate facing you.
When working in the round, you never turn — you keep going in the same direction, always working with the right side facing you. This produces a tube (for hats and sleeves) or a flat circle (for coasters, bases, and motifs) depending on how you manage your increases.
Flat Rows
- Turn work at each end
- Right side alternates
- Produces flat fabric panels
- Used for scarves, blankets, garment pieces
In the Round
- Never turn — work same direction
- Right side always facing you
- Produces tubes or flat circles
- Used for hats, toys, granny squares
A key difference: in flat rows you use turning chains to reach the correct height. In rounds, you use a standing chain at the start of each joined round — or skip it entirely when working a spiral.
The Magic Ring (Adjustable Ring)
The magic ring is the professional standard starting method for circles and flat motifs. It closes completely tight with no hole in the centre — essential for amigurumi and any project where a gap would be visible or stuffing would poke through.
Step-by-step:
- Drape the yarn over your fingers to form a loop — the working yarn (attached to the ball) should cross over the tail end.
- Insert your hook into the loop from front to back, catch the working yarn, and pull it through the loop to form a slip stitch. This anchors the ring.
- Chain the number of stitches your pattern specifies (usually 1–3 depending on stitch height).
- Work your first round of stitches into the centre of the ring — not into the chain.
- When your stitches are complete, pull the tail end firmly to close the ring tight. Slip stitch into the first stitch to join (unless working a spiral).
The magic ring feels awkward the first few times. Practice it ten times in a row with scrap yarn and it becomes completely automatic.
The Chain Ring
The chain ring is the simpler, more traditional starting method. It works well for motifs where a small centre hole is acceptable or even decorative (as in many granny square designs). It is more beginner-friendly than the magic ring.
Step-by-step:
- Chain the number of stitches your pattern specifies to form a ring — commonly 4 to 6 chains.
- Slip stitch into the very first chain you made to close the ring into a circle.
- Chain the turning chain height your pattern requires.
- Work your first round of stitches into the centre hole of the ring (not into the individual chains — into the open space they form).
- Slip stitch into the first stitch to complete the round.
When to use each method:
- Magic ring — amigurumi, stuffed toys, any project where a tight centre is needed.
- Chain ring — granny squares, open lace motifs, large decorative circles where a small hole is fine.
Spiral Method vs Joined Rounds
Once you've started your round, there are two different ways to continue working — and they produce distinctly different results.
The Spiral Method:
You simply keep crocheting without ever joining or turning. Each round flows seamlessly into the next. You will have a visible jog (a small step) where each round begins, but there is no seam line.
- Use a stitch marker to track where each round begins.
- Move the marker up at the start of every new round.
- Best for: amigurumi, hats worked in single crochet, and any project in one solid colour.
Joined Rounds:
At the end of each round, you slip stitch into the first stitch to join, then chain up to start the next round. Each round is clearly distinct.
- Creates a visible vertical seam line where the join sits.
- Easier to count finished rounds accurately.
- Required when working stripes or colour changes between rounds.
- Best for: granny squares, flat motifs, striped hats, and any project changing colours.
Simple rule: one colour with single crochet → spiral. Multiple colours or taller stitches → joined rounds.
⭕ Practice With the Round Stitch Counter
Ready to crochet a flat circle? Our Round Stitch Counter generates the exact round-by-round instructions for any flat circle — magic ring or chain ring, any stitch type — so you always know how many stitches to work each round.
Open Round Stitch Counter ↗