Finishing Techniques

Weaving In Ends

Every time you start a new yarn ball, change colour, or fasten off, you create a tail that needs to be hidden inside the fabric. Weaving ends is not just cosmetic — done correctly, it locks the yarn in place so it cannot migrate or unravel with washing and wear.

The correct method:

1. Thread the tail onto a blunt-tipped tapestry needle (also called a yarn needle or darning needle).
2. Weave the needle through the back loops or bumps of stitches for about 1–2 inches in one direction.
3. Reverse direction and weave back through different stitches for another inch.
4. Reverse once more and weave in a third direction slightly. This creates a zig-zag that locks itself in place.
5. Trim the tail close to the fabric — but not so close you nick the stitches.

Common mistakes to avoid:

• Weaving in only one direction — the tail will work its way out over time.
• Cutting the tail too short before weaving — you need at least 6 inches to secure it properly.
• Weaving through visible loops on the right side — always work from the wrong side of the fabric.
• Tying knots — knots create bumps, can come undone, and are not necessary with proper weaving technique.

Blocking

Blocking is the process of wetting your finished piece and reshaping it while it dries. It evens out uneven stitches, opens up lace patterns, smooths seams, and helps a piece hold its intended dimensions. Many beginners skip blocking entirely and wonder why their work looks rustic — this is usually why.

Wet blocking (most common):

1. Soak the finished piece in cool water for 20–30 minutes until fully saturated.
2. Gently press out excess water — never wring or twist.
3. Lay flat on a blocking mat, foam tiles, or a clean towel.
4. Gently ease the piece into the correct shape and dimensions, pinning edges if needed.
5. Leave to dry completely before unpinning. This can take 12–24 hours depending on yarn weight.

When is blocking necessary?

• Always: Lace shawls, granny squares, any flat motifs that will be seamed together.
• Often helpful: Garments, hats, anything with a specific finished size requirement.
• Usually not needed: Amigurumi, stuffed toys, dishcloths, and other sturdy single-crochet projects.

Check your yarn label first. Not all fibres can be wet blocked. Acrylic yarn cannot be wet blocked in the traditional sense — it requires steam blocking or simply pressing with a damp cloth.

Seaming — Joining Pieces Together

When a pattern is worked in multiple pieces (such as a sweater with separate front, back, and sleeves), seaming joins them into a finished object. Two methods cover almost every situation.

Slip stitch seam (crochet join):

Works well for joining granny squares, attaching borders, and anywhere a visible ridge on the wrong side is acceptable.

1. Hold the two pieces together with wrong sides facing (right sides out).
2. Insert your hook through both corresponding edge stitches simultaneously.
3. Slip stitch across the entire edge, working through both layers.
4. The join creates a flat ridge on one side.

Mattress stitch (sewn join):

The most invisible seaming method — the join disappears into the fabric. Ideal for garments and any project where seams should not be visible.

1. Lay the two pieces side by side with right sides facing up.
2. Thread a tapestry needle with a length of matching yarn.
3. Working from bottom to top, weave the needle alternately through the edge stitches of each piece — one stitch from the left piece, one from the right.
4. Pull the yarn snug every few stitches. The two edges are drawn together invisibly.